Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Visit to Pench Tiger Reserve ~ Memories Awakened

Bidding adieu to ‘Chitvan’ and to Kanha (Read more about this trip here : http://rantsofleonard.blogspot.in/2016/05/visit-to-evergreen-jewel-kanha-tiger.html) Me, Sameer, Shriram and Amruta Got into the Ertiga, our pick up for the travel to Pench Tiger reserve. The Ertiga Driver Umar Bhai was a cool cucumber chap who drove the car swiftly but quite safely through the smooth roads. Somewhere in the middle of nowhere and below a shady tree we made a quick pit stop to polish off the packed lunch provided to us by ‘Chitvan’.We continued on the road to pench with Umar Bhai pushing up the accelerator a little bit more. The Ever vigilant Shriram who sat beside him engaged him in small talk in order to keep him alert while Me, Amruta and Sam dozed off for some time in the back seats. The Road passes through some pristine forests and eye pleasing Ghats. We were engaged in some small talk when vishaka called up and confirmed that she had arrived at the Tiger and Woods resorts where it was decided to be put up. Upon reaching the hotel we were welcomed by a smiling Vishaka. Accompanying her was Monu our friend cum gypsy driver cum travel car and gypsy fleet owner cum award winning photographer cum excellent tracker. As you can see, Monu Bhiya as we call him, wears a lot of hats, and carries huge responsibilities on his young shoulders but is always at hand for any and all help needed to make our stay comfortable.

We checked our allotted rooms at the Tiger and Woods resorts but did not at all find them satisfactory (No proper cleanliness in the rooms, gaps in the walls of the tree houses due to which there was a problem of insufficient room cooling and of mosquitoes.The property and surroundings were also not properly maintained and cleaned) We then decided to shift to the nearby Tribal camp which was a little further away from the entry gate.  

You will fall in love with the Tribal camp set up. Nestled cosily in the wilderness amidst the flora and fauna of Pench, It has a centrally located raised wooden machan with lounge chairs on top sitting prettily under a huge green leafy Mahua Tree , couple of Swings hang ready for you to take a nip, amazingly softly cushioned sofas lie strategically placed for you to just laze into, soft green lawn covers an adjacent circular ground and surrounding this central area are around 12 to 15 air conditioned elevated wooden cottages inviting you with their raw rustic appeal. The log cottages are sans the traditional brick and mortar holiday home types. Covered with dried grass that nature has built to absorb heat or cold, it gives you a glimpse of living ecologic! The log cottages or wooden Machaans also benefit the environment apart from several health benefits. Each Log cottage interior uses space judiciously and is designed with a lot of thought to create an authentic feel. With all essential living amenities, attached toilets and bathrooms with bathtubs and complete with hot and cold running water, and air conditioners you are assured of an excellent and comfortable stay.

Extending outwards from every cottage, is a large wooden deck overlooking the jungle - You can spend the evening gazing at the setting sun giving way to star sprinkled skies at night, with the gentle breeze for company lying on the comfortable beach chairs kept on it. The quaint mud and jute restaurant, with khaats and fresh food, offers fine dining with a range of cuisines, suited to each palate.

Tribal camp and its Surroundings 
We were a unique group of friends from varied backgrounds with a common denominator of love for nature and a craze for photography. Sameer-The calm and composed Nisarga Brahman’s lead who works in TIFR also a good Photographer, Vishu – IT professional, funny and easy-going from Pune but unlike the typical “Punekars” :P , Shriram –  Photographer, avid traveller and a businessman and The Quite Amruta a Dietician by profession and a budding Photographer (Got some Excellent Healthy eating tips from her). We all got along well and made a good spirited group. Cracking jokes, sharing stories about past trips, offering advice about respective fields of expertise and basically having one hell of a wonderful time. You come to know how a wonderful trip can be enriched by the people you travel with.    
  
Shriram, Sam and I were put up in one wooden cottage while Vishu and Amruta were staying in the one adjacent to ours. There were many water feeders/small ponds spread across the property which in turn attracted many birds.With plenty of time on our hands we started photographing the birds we could see. In a span of two evening hours I counted around 15 species of birds in the Tribal camp premises. Indian Rollers, Golden Orioles, Black Hooded Orioles, Black Napped Monarch, Jungle Babblers, Tickle’s Blue flycatcher, Male and Female Paradise Flycatcher, Magpie Robin, Common Robin, Grey Hornbill, a pair of Great Tits, Asian Pied Starling, Purple sunbird, Kingfishers, plum headed parakeets were some of the birds spotted.

By now a little hungry we had some hot, crispy pakoras and Lemon grass Tea sitting on top of the machan. Our dinner preferences were asked and conveyed to the kitchen staff. After Freshening up a little bit we had a awesome dinner in the quaint mud and jute restaurant. The Food was tasty and filling. Service was quick and spot on. After dinner prof.sam conducted a class/lecture on star gazing while Asst.prof.Shriram chipped in with valuable info all with live practical’s (Looking up the beautiful star lit sky). I got a crash course in star gazing, the milky way, various ‘nakshatras’, names of stars, Hindu Mythology, how to correctly identify the location of North pole with the help of the Ursa Major constellation also known as ‘SaptRushi’. Whew, I hadn’t had such huge tons of knowledge in such a short time since cramming for my Engineering vivas!!!!!  Another advantage of travelling with a varied group of people. Reluctantly we called it a day as we had an early morning start for the first safari tomorrow.
Waking up and after a quick getting over of the morning formalities had some good lemon grass Tea and biscuits.There are three entry gates to the park, the Turia gate (the most convenient entry gate), Karmajhuri gate and the Jamtara gate. Monu was ready with the safari jeep and we were on our way to the Turia Gate of the Pench Tiger Reserve for our first safari of the Trip. We soon reached the gates and parked the gypsy in the waiting queue to enter into the reserve gates. Upon completing the usual registration and ID formalities we entered the jungle.          
It is the visits to such places of scenic beauty that will cause you to stop and wonder at the awesomeness of nature. As you pass through deciduous teak jungles for hours without end, you will feel humbled and awed by the presence of Mother Nature. The fascinating and almost silent jungle environment (apart from the rustle of leaves and the occasional cry of a monkey or a bird call) ensures the time spent is not at all tiring but refreshing. During the safari, you could just sit back in the Jeep spotting the wide variety of mammals and birds and feel one with the jungle.
Pench National park, nestling in the lower southern reaches of the satpuda hills is named after Pench river, meandering through the park from north to south and is contiguous with the forest on the southern side in Maharashtra that has been notified as the Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru National Park. It is located on the southern boundary of Madhya Pradesh, bordering Maharashtra, in the districts of Seoni and Chhindwara. Pench National Park, comprising of 758 SQ Kms, out of which a core area of 299 sq km of Indira Priyadarshini Pench National Park and the Mowgli Pench Sanctuary and remaining 464 sq km of Pench national park is the buffer area. The area of the present tiger reserve has a glorious history. A description of its natural wealth and richness occurs in Ain-i-Akbari. Several natural history books like R. A. Strendale's 'Seonee - Camp life in Satpura Hills,' Forsyth's 'Highlands of Central India' and Dunbar Brander's 'Wild Animals of Central India' explicitly present the detailed panorama of nature's abundance in this tract. Strendale's semi-autobiographical 'Seonee' was the inspiration behind Rudyard Kipling's The Jungle Book.

Mowgli and his Many Friends
Kipling borrowed heavily from Robert Armitage Strendale's books 'Seonee', 'Mammalia of India and Ceylon' and 'Denizens of the Jungle' for the topography, wildlife, and its ways. Mowgli was inspired by Sir William Henry Sleeman's pamphlet, 'An Account of Wolves Nurturing Children in Their Dens' which describes a wolf-boy captured in Seoni district near the village of Sant Baori in 1831. Many of The Jungle Book's locations are actual locations in Seoni District, like the Waingunga river with its gorge where Sherkhan was killed, Kanhiwara village and the 'Seeonee hills'. Local tribals, mostly Gonds, revere Mansingh Deo, a legendary figure who was believed to be a magician who had supernatural healing powers. He would ride into the local bazaar on his tiger. There are two temples dedicated to him, the Chhota Mansingh and Bada Mansingh temples. 



Pench will seldom disappoint a birdwatcher. Over 170 species have already been recorded. Here you will be greeted by the Little Grebe and you may see darters, herons, egrets, Whitenecked Stork, pigeons, parakeets or cuckoos. Mynahs, shrikes, orioles, bulbuls, tailor birds, barbets, minivets, sunbirds, wagtails and munias are other birds a visitor could be rewarded with. Water birds are often found around the artificial wetlands created by the submergence of the Pench reservoir. The area is on the migratory route of waterfowl in winter. The area is located in the lower, southern reaches of the Satpura ranges, around 580 m. above sea level. The terrain is undulating, covered with several small hills jutting out like sharp cones.
Day one and we were allotted Route No. 1 – which goes something like this: Piyorthadi (currently closed by Forrest Department due to presence of Sharmili’s cubs)- Junewani- Bijamatta-Sapat- Kalapahad-Chindimatta-Zandimatta.
As we took the turn and climbed the slope for the approach to the lake known as Junewala Talab, Monu with his sharp eyes noticed some movement on the ground. He braked the gypsy and pointed out a crested serpent eagle feasting on a snake Kill. Taking some shots of the bird we moved on. Up ahead we stopped to click a grey hornbill feasting on some fruit tree. Further while passing through the dense foliage of the Sitaghat area a Jungle owlet flew past our gypsy crossing the track and sat a little bit ahead on the other side. This guy is normally so well camouflaged with its surrounding that it’s extremely difficult to spot him while moving in the jungle. We got a couple of shots of the Jungle Owlet before it went off the perch in search of prey. As we moved ahead on the safari track our guide pointed out a pair of Malabar Hornbills feasting on a wild fig tree. We also saw a Pair of Vultures sitting atop a tree. Inquiring further with experts I came to know that they were of TWO different species – the one on the Left being Indian or Long Billed vulture (Gyps Indicus) and the other being White-Rumped vulture (Gyps bengalensis). 
Vultures : L to R:  Indian or Long Billed vulture (Gyps Indicus) and White-Rumped vulture (Gyps bengalensis). 

Moving ahead we waited near the Tirah route to take in and hear if there were any alarm calls. We could see the play of a pair of Greater Racket Tailed Drongo’s on a small tree adjacent to the route. I tried clicking a couple of shots but these guys were so swift that I could barely focus. One moment they would be perched in lovely light but the moment I put the camera to my eye they would be off chasing each other. I was engrossed in their behaviour when vishu nudged me and pointed to a bird sitting in shadows on the other side of the road. I looked carefully and saw that it was a Common Hawk-Cuckoo (Hierococcyx varius), popularly known as the brain fever bird.
It was decided to check the area of the collarwali female and her cubs at Beejamatta area. When we got there we saw that the Forest department personnel were patrolling the area on elephant back. Collarwali and her cubs (Two Adult males from first litter ~ Age being almost 3 years and two female cubs from second litter ~ Age being almost 12 months.) were being constantly monitored by the Forest department. The Elephant with the personnel on top moved in almost every nook and corner even in small valleys trying to find the mother and her cubs who had not being sighted for some days. We hung around for quite some time but the tigress and her cubs were nowhere to be heard or seen and we decided to move on. Monu decided to check out the Naya talab area to see if the female sighted there had made an appearance. We made our way over there and waited just below some shady trees where the rise starts at the base of the waterhole. We had no direct view of the waterhole but a gypsy waited ahead on top in full glare of the sun and with direct line of sight to the water. Monu’s thinking was to not wait in the sun that too in such heavy heat. When on sighting the tiger there would be a huge “churning / commotion” as normally happens amongst the gypsies stationed at the top and of the people in it thus signalling to us from our current shady and comparatively cool waiting spot after which we would move in for the sighting.
The heat was so high that almost every half an hour or so we had to take a cool sip from one of the water bottles in the Icebox kept in the gypsy by our thoughtful hotel staff. I would like to mention here that the difference in temperatures between Kanha-A Evergreen Forest and Pench-A dry deciduous one is huge. While the temperatures at kanha in mornings would be quite cold even for this time of the summer season (So Cold that staff at Chitvan actually inquired with us and especially with the ladies if they needed warm blankets for protection while travelling in the gypsies!!!) the mercury here in Pench was really hitting the roof.   
We were in the middle of one such water break and had popped some sweets in our mouths courtesy vishu when the guide from the gypsy standing on the top signalled for us to come up. Monu was on the accelerator almost immediately and took us up and positioned the vehicle in a spot where we would get a good line of sight as well as angle to get some excellent shots. The Patdev Female was on the move. This female has three sub-adult cubs who stay with her but who are extremely shy and hence rarely seen. Now as I trained my binoculars near the thick vegetation in the small valley besides the water hole I could see the tigress walking carefully but confidently towards the water. Between a flurry of camera clicks she walked the open ground near the small water body that remains in the summer and promptly immersed in it to cool herself. From where all the jeeps stood we were unable to see the tigress sitting in the water. From time to time she would raise her head and check the surroundings. After drinking the water to her full she lay in it for another 20-25 minutes. After cooling in the water to her full the splendid animal got up and walked towards the bund made around the talab, her coat glistening in the midday sun she started climbing the slope.
The Patdev Female Coming out of the Waterhole

By now the surrounding was filled by the clicks of the numerous cameras trained on her from the surrounding gypsies. Oblivious to and Ignoring all this feverish activity around her the tigress after climbing the slope walked on the bund and then going past some bushes crossed the gypsy track route and disappeared into the jungle into the other side. We could see her on and off walking in the dense jungle. A herd of deer gave out some alarm calls while she stopped for some time but then completely went out of sight. It was almost time to head out for the gates so we decided to call it a day.




A quick and tasty lunch later we were back at the gates for the afternoon safari. While we were waiting for the gates to open at the scheduled hour a local woman approached us with a small basket of goodies. Selling fresh forest produce wrapped neatly in cones made from leaves her basket contained assorted goodies such as sweet and sour thin Strips of delicious tasting mangoes, dark red ripe berries sprayed with a dash of salt and steamed pods of dry peanuts. A very excited Amruta bought a cone from the lady and began gleefully enjoying the stuff. Offered a taste by her I too enjoyed some of them.
Basket of goodies.

This afternoon our second safari the route was similar to that of the morning.Checking various water holes on the way we headed to the Bijamatta talab. On one water hole we found a pack of around twenty wild dog’s and their cubs resting/sleeping in various positions. Monu informed us that this was the wild dog’s favoured location and they could be found here almost all of the time. We continued towards Bijamatta talab and upon reaching saw that a Sambar kill had been made almost near the lake waters, but it lay untouched on the spot. Discussing with Monu and our guide we came to know that the kill was most likely made at night and might have been made by the prominent male of this area – The Rayyakasa Male .We waited for the Tiger to make a show and sure enough after some time this huge guy stepped out from jungle behind the lake. I was totally mesmerised by this hulk of a tiger. He walked straight out to the water and drank his full, and then started walking on the water’s edge. After he had reached his favourite spot he turned around and got into the water. He lay there for almost an hour before standing up. Soaking wet and water dripping from his golden coat he walked right past the kill and slowly disappeared back into the jungle. We were not going to be treated of the sight of a tiger having his meal after all!!!!  
The Dominant,Majestic and Huge Rayyakasa Male

Pench has been a perfect spot for me to learn. It was here that I had my first proper sighting of a wild tiger. (You can read about that exciting encounter here: http://rantsofleonard.blogspot.in/2016/05/sighting-queen-sharmili-tigress-at.html)  It has taught me patience, observation and behaviour. Behaviour of not only the tiger but also about its various inhabitants such as bears, birds, antelopes,gaurs and primates. What makes this forest a photographer’s delight is the varied landscape, numerous water bodies, mountains, vast grasslands and the meadows around the Pench River which runs through the Reserve. Since this forest is visited by photographers from around the globe, one needs to find ways of getting creative in capturing and presenting his or her work. Knowing tiger behaviour is very imperative in capturing the right moment.
Day two and the third safari of the trip. Today morning we were allotted the Route No. 2 – which goes something like : Baghinnala-karmazari-Rayakassa-Malkundam-Alikatta-Patdev-Tirah-Jodamatta-Sitaghat-Jodamunara-Bison camp-Bodhanala. Once inside we took the long route through dense forest to reach the Karmazari gate. We saw couple of leopard pugmarks along with its cubs near a waterhole. We waited for some time but the shy animal that the leopard is it rarely comes out in the open in the presence of gypsies or humans. We continued further and waited for some time near a waterhole just besides the Karmazari entry gate as a huge male tiger is sometimes seen near here. Seeing no activity or even alarm calls around us we continued further. On the way we stopped to shoot a pair of streak-throated woodpeckers.

Going ahead we reached the Bodhnala forest check post which sits prettily opposite the Bodhnala Lake and a small check dam. We stopped here for some time to take a bathroom break and had a chat with the Forrest officials stationed there.
The Bodhnala Lake opposite which there's a forest check post 

Monu then decided to check the kill we saw yesterday at the Bijamatta talab. The kill was nowhere to be seen (most likely shifted by the tiger to some other place in the night) but to our dismay just as we reached Bijamatta we saw the Rayyakasa Male walking off into the jungle.This was a good opportunity we had lost as there were favourable lighting conditions for shooting.Shriram was especially crestfallen as due to low lighting conditions and strong backlight yesterday he was unable to make proper images of the Rayyakasa male.But nature is unpredictable and you have to face up and take the dissapoinments in you stride.


All of us were hungry at this point of time so we decided to have breakfast. We reached Ali Katta, a central point for all the safari routes where some of the safari vehicles were already parked. Apart from being a restroom stop, and a breakfast point Ali Katta is also the base for elephants that are deployed for patrolling by the Forest department. After having some sandwiches and snacks along with other refreshments packed for us by our Hotel we headed back into the trail. Returning back we checked the Junewala Talab  for any activity but apart from some Langur’s, deer and a lone crested serpent eagle sitting on a tree perch everything looked still and silent in this rising heat. We headed out for the gates as time was almost up.
Reaching our hotel there was still time for lunch so we had a small photo shoot of our group. Various and all types of poses were tried and clicked at various corners of the property. I had a chat with the proprietor of our Hotel Tribal Camp Mr. Sandeep Singh a jolly personality who had dropped by. He shared some interesting tit bits about the property. While we were chatting a member of his staff informed us that our lunch was ready. Swapping stories over a tasty and leisurely lunch we retired to our cottages for a tiny nap.
Fourth safari and we took a different route to check out the water hole near the Karmazari gate. This route was from the Baghinala area. Enjoying the jungle and going slowly we stopped to click the many birds which were sighted. We stumbled on a wild Jackal walking quite fearlessly and gaily on the safari track.

Jackal walking on the safari track.

He gave us a cursory glance and marked his territory on a tree nearby and went ahead on the track. We reached the Karmazari gate waterhole but instead of a Tiger we found a Huge Bison munching lazily on some wild flowers that hung from a creeper near the waterhole.After waiting for some time moving ahead we saw a Jungle Fowl pair grazing besides the track. On seeing our approaching gypsies both disappeared under the bushes adjacent to the route and were soon out of site. Moving further we reached the evergreen meadows of the Sitaghat area where loud alarm calls could be heard from the opposite banks of the Pench River. Scanning the jungle on the other ends with the help of binoculars I could see couple of deer standing on the alert with their tails high up in the air while a Jackal moved along lazily at the same time. A predator was definitely in the area but we could not locate it. This was the area of the tigress Collarwali and her cubs from The Rayakassa male tiger. 

Sitaghat area 


As we were waiting on the river banks we could see three elephants with their patrol Forrest guards moving towards us from the thick jungle bush. Like yesterday they were trying to locate the Collarwali female tigress and her cubs. On reaching us our guide and gypsy driver exchanged pleasantries with the guards before they continued on their way.By now the sun was pretty down the horizon and was starting to spread its golden rays upon the Forrest track. I clicked some frames of the beautiful golden landscape that lay ahead. On the way back we made a quick stop at AliKatta where I clicked some frames in the sunset hours and we were out of the gates within stipulated time.

AliKatta - Rest Point
 We got up early as usual for what was to be our last safari of this trip. I was soaking up the sights and smells of the Forest as we passed through this enchanting place and writing it to memory to recollect whenever needed. Passing through the Baasnala area we stopped to photograph a Rufous Woodpecker busy feasting on small ants on a tree. As we made our way into Sitaghat the ever alert and sharp eyed Monu braked the gypsy and brought it to a halt. He quietly pointed out something on the ground level. Looking to where he was pointing we saw a Crested Hawk-Eagle also known as changeable Hawk-Eagle sitting on a fallen tree bark with what seemed like the remains of a kill. We clicked this magnificent bird of prey in the Golden light before he took off. As we moved ahead into the Rayakassa area we stopped to shoot various birds we encountered such as Lesser Flame back Woodpecker, Crested Serpent Eagle and Orange headed Thrush. 

It was here in the same area that I managed to get a silhouette of my favourite bird a Rufous Paradise Flycatcher Male. Next up we decided to check out collarwali and her cubs at Piyorthadi but waiting there for more than an hour and seeing no movement at all we moved further to the Rayakassa Forest Camp area for a quick break for pressure relief ;). Now the time was almost up for us to leave but we decided to check out the Bijamatta Talab to see if the Rayakassa Male had made appearance at the water body. Reaching there we saw almost twelve gypsies waiting for the Tiger to make an appearance. We waited at the Bijamatta Talab till almost past time to head for the gates but it seems today we were not to be treated a sighting. We turned back for the gates and to our hotel.
After freshening up we had our lunch and proceeded to click some pics of the property. Clearing up the checkout formalities we bid adieu to Monu who had dropped by to say goodbye and also to the staff of Tribal Camp. It was Umar Bhai again who was to drop us off to the Railway station. On reaching Nagpur we made the customary stop at Haldiram’s outlet at Birdy’s for some orange Barfi and other delicacies. 

 Our train, Vidharba express, was scheduled to leave Nagpur for Mumbai at 17.15 hrs. Another Fun filled trip had come to an end with GB’s of memories to be cherished for a lifetime. We reached Dadar, Mumbai at around seven the next morning. I accompanied Shriram to his house where I quickly freshened up, had some piping hot breakfast and thanking him for his warm hospitality made my way back to office. Another world another City I was back to the Corporate Grind once again. 

  

Some valuable Information You Can Use about the Pench Tiger Reserve:  


Topography: The terrain of the park is undulating with mainly gentle slopes criss-crossed by streams and nullahs. Most of these water courses are seasonal. Many of the hills are flat-topped and allow fine vistas of the forests around. The best known of these is 'Kalapahar' with an altitude of 650 mts. The Pench river flowing through the centre of the Reserve is dry by April but a number of water pools locally known as 'dohs' are found, which serve as waterholes for wild animals. A few perennial springs also exist. Recently a number of earthen ponds and shallow wells have been developed leading to well distributed sources of water all around the reserve. 
Conservation History: In the year 1977 an area of 449.39 sq km was declared Pench Sanctuary. Out of this, an area of 292.85 sq km was declared Pench National Park in the year 1983 and 118.31 sq km remained as Pench Sanctuary. In 1992 Government of India declared 757.89 sq km area including the National Park and the sanctuary as the 19th Tiger Reserve of the country. The name of Pench National Park was changed to "Indira Priyadarshini Pench National Park" in November 2002
Wildlife: Tiger is the main cat species of the park present in good numbers. Commonly seen wildlife is chital, sambhar, nilgai, wild boar, and jackal. Other wild animals found are leopard, sloth bear, wild dog, porcupine, jungle cat, fox, striped hyena, gaur, chowsingha and barking deer. There are more than 200 species of birds including several migratory ones. Some of them are peafowl, junglefowl, crow pheasant, crimson-breasted barbet, red-vented bulbul, racket-tailed drongo, magpie robin, lesser whistling teal, pintail, shoveler, egret and herons. This national park is rich with chitals i.e. axis axis or more commonly spotted deer. There are 25 tigers under this umbrella of the Park. 39 species of mammals, 13 species of reptiles, 3 species of amphibians. Apart from mammals and other land-based wildlife, the park is also rich in bird life. According to an estimation of the wildlife authorities, the bird population in the park counts to be over 210 species like barbets, bulbul, minivets orioles, wagtails, munias, mynas, waterfowls, kingfishers etc.
Vegetation: The high habitat heterogeneity favours high population of Chital and Sambar. Pench tiger reserve has highest density of herbivores in India (90.3 animals per sq km).The forests are mainly Southern tropical dry deciduous and dry mixed deciduous forests.Teak Tectona grandis dominates, comprising 25-50 per cent of the species. Moyan, Mahua, Mokha, Skiras, Tendu, Bijra, Garari etc. are associates of teak. Dhaora Anogeissus latifolia, lendia/seja Lageostroemia parviflora, saja Terminalia tomentosa, salai Boswellia serrata, bija Pterocarpus marsupium, bhirra Chloroxylon swietenia and sirus Albizzia lebbeck are other trees. Bamboo occurs sparsely, restricted to some valleys. Chiltai, mahulbel and palas bhel are common climbers in areas along the river and large water sources.
The Pench hydroelectric dam straddles the Maharashtra - Madhya Pradesh boundary. The dam, constructed between 1973 and 1988 has resulted in the submergence of about 74 sq km area out of which 54 km is in the Park, the rest being in Maharashtra.
Almost all the animals seen in Kanha, except barasingha, can be seen in Pench. In April when the Pench river dries out, the animals use locally formed dohs as waterholes. The submergence of the Pench reservoir at the centre of the reserve acts as an artificial wetland where you may see hordes of water birds. You'd probably see chinkara in small herds in open areas and sometimes around Turia, Telia and Dudhgaon villages.Wild dogs are seen in packs of 12 to 15 near Chhedia, Jamtara, Bodanal and Pyorthadi.The wild boar is found almost all over the park, mainly in areas next to agricultural fields, especially in Chhindwara district.You would probably catch the sloth bear in its favourite hangout amidst the hilly, rocky outcrops and the mahulbel infested forests. Look around for them especially at Kalapahad.Jackals are sometimes seen next to villages near Tekadi, Alikatta and Chhindimatta.In the Bodanala and Budhgaon tanks situated within the precincts of the park, a large number of migrant waterfowl may be seen in winter. You may also see pigtailed ducks in large numbers near Bodanala tank. The Dudhgaon talab in Chhindwara district also attracts migratory birds. The pied or small blue kingfisher is also often seen in Pench.
Points of interest:


  • Turia Gate – entry point 2.2 km from ‘Tathastu’ (Pench Resorts)
  • Alikatta – core and meeting point of the Park
  • Junewani Talao – a small picturesque pond.
  • Piyorthadi – sight where you can spot  leopards
  • Baghin Nala – most famous for Tiger sightings in the past few seasons
  • Sitaghat /Raiyakassa – spectacular view of Pench river bank and spot for bird-watching
  • Bijamatta – a pond with rocky land and picturesque hilly region
  • Bodha Nala – Small lake with serene surrounding
  • Chindimatta – junction of roads from Chhindwara-Seoni
  • Kalapahad – highest point in the park. Wireless tower installed. Closed for tourists.
  • Jamun Nala Area – mostly Grassland.
  • Karmajhari – Entry gate on other side of Seoni Range.



Friday, May 20, 2016

Sighting The Queen ~ SHARMILI ~ Tigress At The Pench Tiger Reserve

Date : Thursday 10th April 2014 

Place : Pench Tiger Reserve.


Our first evening safari of the trip. Immediately upon entering the Tiger reserve gate we came across a crested serpent eagle sitting on a lovely perch. I considered this as a good omen and eagerly looked forward to what lay ahead. But covering the jungle for about two hours we were yet to get the prized sighting of the Tiger. With Only one hour remaining for the time to head out of the gates and with our hopes drying up We were returning back to the Kalapahad area of the park when we saw a cluster of jeeps waiting by the side of the track. After inquiring from the others our driver and guide both informed us that there was a tigress sitting deep inside under some trees. Our guide handed me his Binoculars and pointed his hand under a tree at a great distance. After much trial and error I could manage to locate the tigress that was sprawled under some tree and was napping. All the jeeps waited for the tigress to wake up. After what seem like ages there was some movement and the tigress started rolling in the mud and finally got up only to go further deep in the jungle.Time passed by but everyone around still waited in the hope that the tigress might come out and cross the road.

Our Driver Monu and our guide discussed something between them and decided to leave the others and go ahead someplace. Upon inquiring I learnt that he was taking us to Piyorthadi an area which runs parallel to where the tigress was earlier sleeping in the hopes that she might cross this road. We took a right from the main road and reached the Piyorthadi area which has a impenetrable forest cover of Teak trees on both the sides. Monu slowed the gypsy down and silence engulfed us. After travelling for about ten minutes I got up in the moving gypsy in the intent of capturing some landscapes of this dense jungle around. I was busy clicking some shots when suddenly our guide sitting beside Monu urgently whispered the words “Sir TIGER”. I almost fell over as I swiftly turned around to see a tigress walking along the path in front of the gypsy. We drove for a few kilometers behind her keeping a safe distance clicking pictures as she marked her territory. 

The Jungle silence around and evening darkness slowly creeping on us made it truly a magical and almost surreal moment for all of us. As ours was the only gypsy around to witness this beautiful creature in its natural surroundings we could watch her every move with utmost attention and without being disturbed or provoked in any way. The tigress continued to mark her territory and let us enjoy her company for almost forty five minutes before deciding to retire behind a rocky hill for the night.

As Monu later informed us The Tigress was Sharmili , so named because of her extreme shyness.
So Here is Sharmili Doing her “Thing” :) .  


For More Pictures please Visit  : 

https://500px.com/leonardrebello

http://yourshot.nationalgeographic.com/profile/389544/


https://www.facebook.com/LeonardoDaFotogravinci/



Wednesday, May 11, 2016

Visit To the Evergreen Jewel : Kanha Tiger reserve

           After a Six day birding trip in the biting cold of January to the beautiful Tal Chhapar Sanctuary (Trip details will be posted soon enough) I was eagerly looking forward to a well-planned back to back trips, first to the Kanha Tiger reserve with Nisarga Bhraman (NB) and from there a private trip to the Pench Tiger reserve with Five of us friends. Being visiting kanha for the first time and having heard about how beautiful the forest was I was naturally curious about what actually lay before me.
Trains seats were booked on the Vidharba express for 21st April scheduled to leave CST at 19.10hrs.Plan was to go to CST after attending office and take the train. My friend Shriram Joshi very generously arranged to pick up my luggage thus saving me loads of trouble carrying stuff around. We reached Gondia at the scheduled time at around 11.15 am. As soon as we stepped out from the AC train compartment we got a taste of the simmering Heat of The region. Temperatures normally hover around 43-45 degrees in normal summer time. I checked my Cell for the Temperature App and saw it displaying digits at around 44 Degrees!!! Coming out of the station we found a small stall selling fresh sugarcane juice and a few rounds were the perfect remedy for our parched throats. By then Our Pickup to our Hotel had arrived and we bundled inside the AC Traveller thankful to get some respite from the scorching heat. We were to have lunch on reaching the hotel, but had to wait at the station for arrival of the second group of people who were delayed due to their train running late, So We had our lunch at a restaurant nearby and proceeded to our hotel which was a good three hours drive away. The plan was to make it to the hotel and thereafter to Kanha Tiger reserve’s Mukki Gate in time for the Days Evening Safari at 3PM.
Butter smooth roads surrounded by green forests lulled everyone into a small nap. I was sitting beside the driver in the front seat and had unhindered views of the beautiful landscapes unfolding before me. Somewhere in between during the beautiful drive I even spotted a Jackal at a small stream running in the forest.
We reached our Hotel “Chitvan Jungle lodge” at around 2.45pm and were warmly greeted by the General Manager Mr.Ashwani Agarwal and Naturalist Mr.Naren Malik. Cold towels were handed to the guests along with glasses of chilled and refreshing Lemon Drink. Our luggage was taken out from the car and was transported to our allotted rooms immediately. This impressive, impeccable and personalised service by the staff of this luxuriously Splendid Eco-Hotel continued right till our last day in this splendid property. Let it be the minute attention to detail or the ever courteous helping hand or putting the guest and his/her comfort on top of their minds each and every individual of the staff came as a topper at every occasion. Kudos to Mr.Ashwin and his team.
After a quick freshening up we got into our respective safari jeeps and sped to the Mukki Gate of the reserve. Day one and our Safari today was in the Mukki Zone. Upon completing the usual registration and ID formalities we entered the jungle.     
Kanha Tiger Reserve is located in the Maikal Hills of the Satpuras spreading over two revenue districts – Mandla and Balaghat. It is situated in the eastern sector of the central Indian Highlands and ranges over an area of 940 sq km in the Mailkal chain of hills. The Reserve consists of the National Park which forms the Core Zone and a Buffer zone around the core bringing the total area up to 1945 sq. km.  Kanha was declared a reserve forest in 1879 and notified as a wildlife sanctuary in 1933. Its status was further upgraded to a national park in 1955. The habitat has an excellent interspersion of geographical attributes and welfare factors which foster a rich population of wildlife. The altitude of the park varies between 450 metres and 950 metres above sea level. The two major rivers here are the Banjar and the Halon – in addition, numerous small tributaries break down through the hill gorges into the valleys, to meander through the meadows. The meadows, dotted with clumps of the great Sal tree, lie interspersed with larger areas of Sal forest while at higher altitudes the bamboo becomes predominant. Beside the Tigers for which Kanha is justly famous, the abundance of wildlife here is remarkable – the magnificent Gaur; The hard ground Barasinga, the herds of Chital,Jackals,wild dogs and the ever present Langurs. In all, some 22 species of large mammals are regularly found within the Park – and the birdlife is equally impressive.
Waiting for the Tiger at the picturesque  Babathenga Talao
 As you venture deep inside the forest, you feel how small and insignificant you are in the larger picture and in the natural scheme of things. The breadth and depth of the jungle is really hard to comprehend. And to think that only 20% of the area is open to tourists. You begin to understand just how the lush Sal and bamboo forests, grassy meadows and ravines of Kanha can entice you with its beauty.The Park's landmark achievement is the preservation of the rare hard-ground Swamp Deer (Barasingha), saving it from near extinction.Stringent conservation programs for the overall protection of the Park's fauna and flora, makes Kanha one of the most well maintained National Parks in Asia. Aside from its diverse wildlife and bird population, the frequent sightings of Tigers roaming in the wild at Kanha Wildlife Sanctuary remains the most popular draw.
The rare hard-ground Swamp Deer (Barasingha)

 Within minutes of entering the gates we sighted a Jackal merrily walking down the safari track!! After clicking him to our heart’s content we reached the Umarjhola area where Sameer (NB Lead) who was with our other group gypsy informed us that they just had The Umarpani Male Tiger crossing the road in front of their gypsy seconds before we reached. Now this is the Fun of the safari. You Miss some and then you get something else in return. Our guide and driver both decided that the tiger might keep walking the fire line (Paths or swatches cut into the forests to arrest/stop spread of fire in the jungle) and might appear from the other end. So we drove to the other end of the Fire line but after waiting for some time there gave up and decided to proceed further.
Indian jackal (Canis aureus indicus)

 Personally for me I was happy just being in this beautiful Evergreen jungle paradise and a Tiger sighting if any was an added bonus. We went further and were passing through the Babathenga talao (Lake) area when we heard couple of Sāmbhar alarm calls and stopped to check them out. But apart from couple of gaurs (Indian Bison’s) we could see no other moment in the area. Time to head out to the gates was almost up and so we decided to exit the gates.

As we neared the safari pick up / drop point of our Hotel we were greeted with a welcome sight. Chitvan’s staff stood ready with cold towels and chilled glasses of juice. We gratefully accepted both with thanks and proceeded to our rooms to freshen up. Chitvan’s luxurious property boasts of around 20 luxurious Rooms. There is a backup electricity and hot water supply along with a well-stocked mini fridge. The suite that we occupied was on an elevated level. The accommodation is based on five elements i.e. Pritvi(Earth), jal(water),  agni(fire), akaash( sky) and vaayu( air). We stayed in the Agni Suites: These Suites stand tall, and grand.
Chitvan - A Luxuriously Splendid Eco-Hotel

By the time we refreshed ourselves, the dinner was ready. In-fact the dining hall is a huge warm and welcoming hall with a mini balcony. It boasts of large dining tables and a well laid out sumptuous buffet. There is a swimming pool just outside and the tribal wall paintings adorning the walls add to the ambiance. After a quick Dip in the pool I made myself available for the dinner. Today’s menu consisted of Barbecue Chicken (My favorite) along with other dishes. After a heavy dinner we retired to our rooms for some well-deserved sleep.
 “Good Morning Sir, this is your wakeup call”. It was 4.30am.All I wanted was to sleep Just a lil bit more but I put the mind over the mattress and jumped out of the bed. After Freshening up we gathered under the starlit sky at the pickup point which was under a huge shady Black Jamun (Syzygium cumini) tree. Chitvan’s attentive staff was already on the ground wishing us Good mornings and offering us tea/ coffee and biscuits with a smile.
We got into our safari Jeeps which were already waiting for us. Today we would be going to the Kisli zone. We had come to know that a female Tigress-Budbudi female with three cubs was regularly sighted at a waterhole near the kisli entry gate and decided to check it out. Kisli Zone lies adjacent to Kanha Zone and has the same habitat type. The meadows are smaller but nevertheless tiger sightings are as good. On the way we stopped at The Nakti ghati anicut and enjoyed some good birding. Here Couple of peacocks and peahens were lazing in the small stream while 8-10 yellow-footed green pigeons (state bird of Maharashtra) rested on a small tree, a pair of hooded oriole’s played around while two pairs of Racket tailed drongo’s played catch-me-if-you-can amongst the branches, one Oriental honey buzzard waited for his breakfast. 
Oriental honey-buzzard (Pernis ptilorhynchus)

We heard some Sāmbhar alarm calls a couple of times but even after waiting for twenty minutes when nothing turned up we decided to go to the lake and wait for the Budbudi female. Upon reaching the place we found almost six gypsies waiting at the waterhole. We waited for almost 40 minutes before the guide suggested that all of us have our breakfast at the centre point designated area and return after we were done. We were provided a tasty, excellent and filling packed breakfast by “Chitvan”. After polishing off the delicacies and washing it down with some chilled juice we headed back to the waterhole. But Today luck was not on our side it seems and there was almost no movement and no alarm calls as well. We prepared to leave for the gate as there is quite a bit of a distance to be covered between Kisli and the Mukki zones.  

Journeying back I marvelled at the variety of colours the jungle was decked up in. Herds of deer darted around in the meadows, pairs of ‘Barasinga’-a species unique to Kanha- lounged around, and birds chirped their hearts out and flew from tree to tree branch to branch, Sambhars munched on some fresh grass, the omnipresent Langurs with tiny babies in their wombs sat in groups grooming each other.
The Ever-Green Forests of Kanha 

 I was totally lost in this beautiful world of the Jungle but came to my senses as our driver slowed the gypsy down and came to a stop. A pair of barking deer were busy grazing right beside the track. Normally these species is extremely shy and will take off and disappear at even a hint of an approaching jeep, but this particular pair was maintaining almost a touching distance from our gypsy and was quite bold. Both the male and female were so close to us that I was forced to take portraits of them with a telephoto lens being mounted on my DSLR. Moving a little ahead we stopped to shoot a male jungle fowl walking along with its two females. We reached Mukki gate at the prescribed time and headed for ‘Chitvan’.
The Indian muntjac(Muntiacus muntjak),also called red muntjac or barking deer

After freshening up we were invited for a presentation on the Kanha Tiger Reserve by ‘Chitvans’ in-house naturalist Mr.Naren Malik. For close to an hour Naren held us totally spellbound by his narration and doled out vast amounts of information related to the wild animals of the Jungle of Kanha. We were shown some awesome photographs taken by him during his almost eight years of association with the Kanha National park. He regaled us with anecdotes and small interesting titbits of information about wild animals, answered all our queries and shared some mind boggling facts.

With two back to back safaris without sighting a tiger the mood in the gypsy was understandably a little muted. Day two and third safari of our trip, today we were going to the Mukki zone-the same zone as yesterday. Our driver for this safari was to be the immensely knowledgeable and multitalented Mr.Naren Malik, the in-house naturalist at ‘chitvan’ .With a mountain of knowledge that comes with around 8 years of roaming the jungles of Kanha, Naren knows the jungle, all its routes and the moment of the Tigers like the back of his hand. Whatever questions thrown at him were answered with great courtesy and with additional information. He knew the history of the big cats dating back to generations. He regaled us with stories of the jungle and of the Tigers and leopards and other inhabitants during the safari.

We were passing through the road which runs parallel to the Umarjhola Lake when our ever vigilant guide Ramesh exclaimed “Sir Tiger in the Lake”. Naren immediately applied the brakes and turned the gypsy around and positioned it in such a way so as to get a good angle for us for photography and at the same time facilitate movement of other gypsies passing by. The tiger drinking thirstily from the lake was none other than Link7, the popular male tiger from the Mukki zone, son of legendary Munna of Kanha and also known as chotta Munna. As anyone who has been to the Umarjhola Lake area of Kanha knows that due to height of the sand bund which is adjacent to the lake and running parallely to the road it’s almost impossible sitting in the gypsy and sighting any wildlife. Only a small window is available to take a peek inside from the far end of the lake. I thanked Ramesh for his alertness. Link 7 was in absolutely no hurry to go anywhere from the lake. He gave me many opportunities and numerous frames –Lapping up and drinking water from the lake with his tongue out - sitting innocently with his massive head resting on his front paws - staring dreamily at his reflection in the lake waters – all moods of his were captured to the heart’s content.  
At the end of the day we returned to the gates wearing huge beaming smiles spread across our faces. At Chitvans we were greeted by the Manager Mr.Ashwin Agrawal who wished us on our tiger sighting. It’s said that you don’t have to ask a person if he has seen a tiger it’s written on his / her face. How true and observant of the staff to notice such small details.
 Tiger (Panthera tigris) - Link7 A.K.A chotta Munna in various moods 

Day three and it was to be the fourth and final safari of this trip to Kanha. We were assigned Mukki zone and as soon as we entered the zone we heard numerous sambhar alarm calls. But even after waiting for some time we saw no moment. This continued for some time-we would hear alarm calls and track couple of pug-marks but could not sight a single tiger. Maybe the tiger was trying to get us back for another trip to this beautiful evergreen Jewel.
GoodBye - Golden Hues of Kanha 

After quickly freshening up we bid goodbye to ‘Chitvan’- our home for the past couple of days. General Manager Mr.Ashwani Agarwal and Naturalist Mr.Naren Malik were present to bid us goodbye and to invite us to visit this splendid property again.

From this Kanha group of twelve people - Myself ,Sameer, Shriram and Amruta would now be travelling to Pench Tiger reserve (A three Hour road journey from Kanha) where Our friend Vishaka would be joining us for further Five safaris there.

That Journey continues in the Next Blog Coming up ……. 

For More Pictures please Visit  : 

https://500px.com/leonardrebello

http://yourshot.nationalgeographic.com/profile/389544/

https://www.facebook.com/LeonardoDaFotogravinci/

Some valuable Information You Can Use about the Kanha Tiger Reserve: 




    
Kanha National Park is divided under 4 zones namely Mukki, Kanha, Kisli, and Sarhai zones.

Mukki Zone
Unofficially the most popular zone of all due to favourable tiger and wildlife sightings. This zone is used mostly by tourists staying on the Mukki side of the Park. This is an ideal zone to look for Tigers, Hard Ground Swamp Deer, Indian Bison, Wild Dogs, and Leopards. The waterholes harbor many water birds. The topography is less hilly with marshy grasslands at Soundher and Bishanpura.

Kanha Zone
Kanha zone is a premium zone, and the tourists have to pay extra fees to do safari in this zone. Kanha Zone ensconces Sal belt, mixed forests, grassy meadows and number of water bodies like Sarvan Taal. The meadows are preferred for tiger safaris as maximum numbers of tiger sightings take place here. Elephant rides or tiger show are regularly held here which increase the chance of sighting tigers.

Kisli Zone
Kisli Zone lies adjacent to Kanha Zone and has the same habitat type. The meadows are smaller but nevertheless tiger sightings are as good. The road leads to Bhamni Dadar Sightseeing point. The Nakti ghati anicut is good for birding and offers a good chance to see the tigers in dense forests.

Sarhai Zone
Sarai Zone is a recent addition to tourism infrastructure at Kanha. The area consists of dense mixed forests and is considered as most scenic. The gate does not have accommodations close by hence tourists stay at the Khatia village. The entry for tiger safari at Sarhai is through the Khatia Gate used for entry into Kanha and Kisli Zones. This is a good place to see the Nilgai or Blue Bull antelope besides tigers and other animals . This zone is about 60kms from the Mukki gate.

Important areas in Mukki Range, Kanha : 


OURAI: Between years 1974 to 1976 many tribal villages have been shifted out of the park. Ourai was one of them. This place is good for herbivores like Barasingha, Sambhar Deer spotted Deer and Bison. The chances to see Tiger & Leopard are good. Distance from Mukki to Ourai is 1 kms.

BISHANPURA: This old village site has been shifted out between 1973 to 1975. Now this place has develop into a beautiful grass land with ample of water and emerging into a favorite converging point for herbivores like Sambhar deer, spotted deer, wild boars etc. This place attracts water birds. This place also has a very good chance for Tiger as well as Leopard sighting due to good herbivore population and water in the area. Distance from Mukki to Bishanpura is 11 kms.

DUKE’S ROAD: This road is in a‘D’ Shape and the name of this road is kept on the name of Mr. Dukes’ a scientist who has done research on Swamp deer. The chance of seeing Tigers and Leopards in this area is quite well. Distance from Mukki to Dukes Road is 10 kms.

GHORELLA: This village site was shifted in the year 1974 and has been converted into a beautiful grass land. Distance from Mukki gate is 6kms.

SONDAR: Like many other tribal villages Sondar was also shifted out between 1973 to 1976. The significance of the place is Sondar water tank, a good water body, from which it aquired the name. Sondar tank attracts a lots of wild animals and Barasingha can be easily sighted there feeding on aquatic plants. This place attracts lots of water birds and there is good chance of seeing Tiger and Leopard during summer time. Distance from Mukki to Sondar is 8 km.

LAPSI KABARAn expert hunter and Guide named Lapsi is set to have been killed at this spot in 1930. Kabar is local name for a grave. The legend has it that Lapsi was accompanying some sports men in the jungle when he had a close encounter with the Tiger. Distance from Mukki to Lasi Kabar is 10kms

BABATHENGA TANK : This water body attracts a variety of birds. It is frequented by many spices of animals and there is high probability of seeing a Tiger or a Leopard here. Distance from Mukki to Babathenga is 12kms.


UMARJHOLA : This is a small but a good water body which attracts lots of herbivores like Sambhar ,Chital, Barking Deer, Wild Boar and Bison. The chances are very good for Tiger and Leopard sighting, as it has a good brricade from the tourist trainl, hence it is not easy to see animals in this water body, but around the water body one can the movement of the animals. It has some good shade due to nearby trees, and Tiger and Leopards commonly come and wait in the shade area for their prey. Distance from Mukki to Umarjhola is 9kms.


BAMNIDADAR : It is one of the highest plateau in the Kanha Tiger reserve and during the british Raj this area was also used as a air strip to land the Britishers who landed here to do safaris and game hunting. It offers a beautiful panorama of the plains of Mukki, Ourai, Ghorella and Bishanpura. The drive from Sharvan tal to Bamnidadar is a very good experience of jungle excursions. Distance from Mukki to Bamnidadar is 15kms.


Important Areas in Kanha Range :


KANHA MEADOWS : Kanha meadows are perhaps the best place to view wild life. They are favoured by herbivores and therefore also predators. Here many species of herbivores such as Chital, Barasingha, Sambhar Deer, and Gaur can be seen either grazing or passing through on there way to the water hole and Tiger, Leopard or wild dogs may be lurking in the near by thickets. Distance from Mukki to Kanha Meadows is 23kms.

SHARVAN TALThis small earth bund tank in the central Kanha meadows is mythologically linked to the death of the legendary Sharvan Kumar at the hands of King Dasharatha (father of Lord Rama). Kind Dashratha was hunting game, when he heard some sound in nearby bushes, and he thought it to be some game shot an arrow in the direction, it turned out to eb Shravan, he died. His blind parents then cursed King Dashratha that he also will undergo lot of sorrow as his son will be destined to leave him. Ramayana the great Hindu epic was thus born. It is a very important water body in the area which attracts a lot of wild animals. Distance from Mukki to Shravan Tal is 24kms.

SHARAVAN CHITA : Sharavan Kumar a dutiful son and the embodiment of total filial dedication is set to have been cremated (chita is local name for a dead body) at this place about 5000 years back, the soil colours are strikingly different from its immediate surroundings and this adds to the mystery of the myth. The spot can be seen from a distance while moving on the Bamnidadar – Keraghat road. Distance from Mukki to Shravan Chita is 35kms.


KANHA MUSEUM : This place is located at the park head quarters in Kanha village, it contains fascinating, well conceived exhibits relating to the entire eco system and its fauna and flora. The museum complex consist of seven rooms distributed between two buildings. The museum opens daily at 0700hrs and remain accessible to the visitor during the excursion hours throughout the day. Distance from Mukki to Kanha museum is 25kms

Important areas in Kisli Range :



DIGDOLA : This comes in Kisli range and is located at a high altitude in the park. Digdola names has been kept because in this route there is rock which is nicely balanced. In this route also there is good chance of seeing Tiger, sloth bear and Leopard. distance from mukki to Digdola is 37kms.


SONF MEADOWThis is the abandoned site of the first forest village to be shifted out of the park in the year 1973. The place attracted a few Barasingha initially and later on proved to be an excellent restoration site for the dwindling numbers of the Barasingha .The area today is as good as kanha meadows for viewing wild life such as Chital, Sambhar, Wild Boars , Jackal and occasionally Wild Dog, Bison and Tiger. Distance from Mukki to Sonf meadow is 35kms.

KOPERDABRI : There is a story about the place that one Bhagwan Prasad Patel a forest guard of the Koper - Dabri camp had come back from forest and had his supper with his two game watchers and was lying down in his cot. Suddenly he heard the breaking end crashing of tree branches and bamboo frame works and the jingling of heavy chains. It was a small herd of departmental elephants consisting of two females and their calves led by the whimsical Tuskar Shivaji who was reported to be in must for the past few weeks. Patel consoled the frightened game watcher, but the watchers moved into the jungle .The elephants were now inside the little courtyard and were trying to pull down the roof of the camp. Patel immediately ran away from there and try to reach the sal tree and scramble up to a safe height on a tree the elephant caught up with him, and pulled him down and trampled him death. Patel's wife is now a forest guard in the department. Distance from Mukki to Koperdabri is 35kms
.


Important areas in Sarhai Range :



This is new part of the park which has been opened recently.

SILPURA MEADOW: This place attracts blue Bull, Chowsingha, and varieties of beautiful birds. The forest of Sarai region does not have much of Sal trees, so the look of the forest is some how different from other range of the park. There is a good chance of seeing Tiger as well as Leopard. Distance from Mukki to Silpura meadow is 45kms

Park Season, Excursion Timings :


The Park is open daily from 16th October to 30 June, although management reserves the option to close earlier if the rains begin before the end of June. The opening hours are scheduled to accord roughly with the seasonal variations in climate, as well as with the length of the day at different seasons. There is always a mid-day break, so that employees may eat lunch and rest and the animals may have a respite, too. Morning Safari is about 6 hours, and the evening safari is about 3 hours. These hours are subject to change because of special conditions: for example, heavy rain showers may make park roads temporarily hazardous, or official activities such as census taking may be scheduled. In practice, "sunrise" and "sunset" are interpreted as "dawn" and "dusk," with vehicles being admitted at 6:30 A.M., for example, if sunrise occurs at 6:50. The gate attendants tend to be stricter about exit times, since darkness follows sunset quite rapidly at this latitude.

Temperatures obtained from the forest department in celsius
Month
Min
Max
October
8 - 15
25 - 35
November
6 - 15
25 - 35
December
4 - 12
21 - 25
January
3 - 10
26 - 30
February
8 - 13
25 - 32
March
13 - 18
30 - 35
April
15 - 20
35 - 44
May
20 - 25
40 - 45


Tiger and general wildlife sightings are good from October till May, but weather wise, Nov, Feb and March are good months.  For Tiger photography, March till May are better months, as it gets hot, and the Tigers are seen relaxing around the water holes.Weekends are relatively busier compared to the weekdays, so those wanting complete peace, and seclusion travel during the week days to Kanha

Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Beauty on a Lazy Easter Sunday Afternoon!!!

Its a Beautiful Easter Sunday Afternoon.You are taking a well deserved Nap after a Heavy Luncheon Feast.Suddenly you are awakened from your deep slumber by some persistent harsh Calls comming from your Window. Reluctantly You Get up to check and see this Beauty calling its heart out.You Rush back, grab the Camera and manage to click a Few Shots. .‪#‎AsianParadiseFlycatcher‬ ‪#‎Backyard‬ ‪#‎Nature‬ ‪#‎birding‬ ‪#‎APFfemale‬


Thursday, July 23, 2015

"माई पाया पडतो"

लागून आलेल्या सुट्टीमुळे आम्हा मित्रामध्ये कुठेतरी भटकंती ठरली अन संध्याकाळी हफिसातूनच परस्पर निघायचे असा बेत झाला.आता कॅमेरा,लेन्स व गरजेपुरते एखाद दोन कपडे अश्याने तयार झालेली आमची थोडीशी वजनी सॅक कशाला उगाच हाफिसात मिरवत न्या (तशी बहुतेक दर वीकएंडला डेस्क शेजारी आमची सॅक "नसली" तर काहीं लोक "अरेच्या ह्यावेळी घरीच वाटते !!! अशे शेरे मारणार ही परिस्थिती) म्हणून एका मित्राच्या कुठल्यातरी दूरच्या पण स्टेशन जवळ एका चाळीत घर असलेल्या त्याच्या एका नातेवाईकाकडे सॅक सकाळी टाकून संध्याकाळी पिक-अप करण्याची सोय करून घेतली. सकाळी त्यांच्याकडे बॅग ठेवायला गेलो तर तिथले काका पूजेत मग्न होते. त्यांनी इशार्यानेच " तिथे ठेव … काळजी करून नकोस " असे मंत्र पुटपुटत मला खुणावले. त्यांनी सांगितलेल्या जागेवर मी सॅक टाकली व आपला रीतसर नमस्कार वगैरे करून निघालो.
संध्याकाळी परत सॅक पिक-अप करायला त्यांच्या घरी पोचलो.दार उघडेच होते आणि मला दारात बघून सोफ्यात बसलेल्या आजीबाई लगबगीने पुढे आल्या व आमची जन्मजन्माची ओळख असल्याकत हसून मला म्हणाल्या "ये ये तुझी बॅग न्यायला आलायेस होय … ये बस". मी आजींना म्हणालो आजी उशीर झालाय त्यामुळे बसत नाही.मला मधेच थांबवत आजी म्हणाल्या "अरे पहिल्यांदाच घरी आलायस,सरबत पिऊनच जा.आणि मी करून ठेवलय तुझ्यासाठी. बैस घटकाभर". मी मुकाट्यान सोफ्यात बसतच होतो तो आजीने माझ्या समोर एक थंडगार कोकम सरबताचा प्याला धरलेला मला दिसला.मोठ्या कृतज्ञतेणे मी ते सरबत प्यालो आणि जाण्या करता उभा राहिलो तो आजीने माझ्या हातात दोन रव्याचे लाडू कोंबले "जाता जाता खा हो …ये " काय म्हणावे ह्या माउलीच्या प्रेमाला. मी आजीला नमस्कार केला व सॅक उचलून दरवाज्यातून बाहेर पडता पडता आजीचे शब्द कानावर पडले "सावकाश रे बाळ.पोहोचशील वेळेत,सावकाश जा,ये ये". खोल मनात काही तरी चटकून गेलं. मी वळलो व दारात उभ्या असलेल्या आजीच्या पायाला स्पर्श केला "माई पाया पडतो". आशीर्वाद देत आजी पुटपुटल्या "आयुष्यमान भव,सदा सुखी रहा…" 
बाहेर आलो आणि वर आकाशाकडे नजर गेली "…परमेश्वरा असेच आशीर्वाद असू दे रे बाबा… अजून काय हवय आयुष्यात …

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

सर

माझे गुरुबंधू आदरणीय लॉरेन्स सर यांची फेसबुकवर लिंक मिळाल्यामुळे बर्याच वर्षानंतर आम्हा दोघांची गाठभेट होऊन परुळेकर सरांच्या आठवणींना उजाळा मिळाला .थोड्या दिवसांनंतर त्यांना मी परुळेकर सरांवर एक ६ वर्षापूर्वी लिहिलेल्या माझ्या एका ब्लॉगची लिंक पाठवून दिली.तो ब्लॉग वाचून ते एकदम भारावून गेले आणि लवकरच सरांच्या जन्मचा वर्धापनदिन २० जुलै रोजी येत आहे त्यामुळे तू त्यांच्या बद्दल थोडेफार लिही असे त्यांनी मला सुचविले . त्यांच्या विनंतीला मान देऊन थोडे सरांबद्दल माझे विचार मांडत आहे ….
सरांच्या सानिध्यात साधारण ५ वर्षे मी सतत होतो.म्हणजे इयत्ता ५वी ते १०वी पर्यंत मी दररोज त्यांच्या कडे अभ्यासाकरिता जात असे. आत्ताचा जो "टयूशन" नावाचा प्रकार/बाजार चालला आहे त्यामध्ये आणि सरांच्या शिकवणीमध्ये जमीन अस्मानाचा फरक होता कारण त्यांनी विद्या ह्या देवीला दुकानामध्ये विकावयास ठेविले नव्हते. ते आमरण तिचे भक्तच राहिले. साधी राहणी आणि उच्च विचारसरणी हे स्तोत्र त्यांनी तंतोतंत पाळिले. त्यांच्या कडे शिकायला आलेल्या प्रत्येकाला त्यांनी प्रेमाने,हळुवारपणे घासून पुसून आणि लखलखीतपणे स्वच्छ करून आयुष्याच्या वाटेला लाविले.श्रीमंत-गरीब,उच्च-नीच, धर्म-जाती ह्या सारख्या भिंती त्यांनी फार पूर्वीच तोडून टाकल्या. एवढ्या वर्षांच्या आमच्या सहवासात मी त्यांना एकदाही -पुन्हा बोलतो एकदाही- कोणावर हात उगारताना तर सोडाच पण कोणावर रागवताना,मोठ्याने बोलताना किंवा कोणाला ओरडताना कधीही पहिले नाही. त्यांचा चेहेरा हा सदैव प्रसन्न व हसरा असायचा कारण त्यांचे मनहि तितकेच प्रसन्न आणि हसरं होतं .
सर आम्हा विद्यार्थ्यांना लिहावयास नेहीमी चांगल्या दर्ज्याचे A4 साइजचे कागद देत .माझे बाबा - जे त्यांचेच विद्यार्थी होते - हे मर्चंटनेव्ही मध्ये नोकरी करत आणि जेंव्हा जेंव्हा घरी येत तेंव्हा त्यांची पहिली फेरी हि सरांकडे असे. .एकदा ते असेच घरी आल्यावर सरांना भेटायला गेले आणि तिथे बसलेल्या विद्यार्थांकडे ते कागद पाहून सरांना म्हणाले कि तुमच्या विद्यार्थ्यांसाठी मी एखाद दोन बंडळ पाठवून देतो . थोड्या दिवसांनी बाबांनी मला सरांकडून ह्या कागदाचा एक नमुना मागून आणायला सांगितला. मी त्यावेळी सर जिथे राहत त्या त्यांच्या न्यू इंग्लिश स्कूलच्या आवारात असलेल्या वास्तव्यात त्यांच्या खोलीत गेलो आणि त्यांना एक कागद नमुना म्हणून देण्यास सांगितले .सर मला बसावयास सांगून आत गेले आणि थोड्या वेळाने बाहेर येउन त्यांनी माझ्या हातात एक दहा-पंधरा पानांचा एक गठ्ठा ठेवला आणि म्हणाले हा नेऊन बाबांना दे हो. मी तेव्हा साधारण सहावी किंवा सातवीला असेन त्यामुळे मी त्यांना आपला भाभडा कि काय म्हणतात असा प्रश्न करून म्हटले सर बाबांनी फक्त एकच कागद मागितले आहे हो.सरांनी मला एकदम जवळ ओढले आणि मायाने माझ्या पाठीवरून हाथ फिरवत म्हटले "अरे बाळ कोणी एकच गोष्ट मागितली तरी आपण जास्त द्यावी रे बोनी". अशी विचारसरणी आमच्या परुळेकर सरांची ….
शेवटी शेवटी जेव्हा त्यांची तब्येत थोडी खालावली तेंव्हा त्यांना त्यांच्या एका डॉक्टर विद्यार्थ्याच्या दवाखान्यात ठेवले होते म्हणून मी आणि माझी आई त्यांना भेटायला गेलो.त्यांच्या आणि बाईंबरोबर थोड्या गप्पागोष्टी करून व त्यांच्या तब्येतीची काळजी घायला सांगून आम्ही जायला उठलो तेव्हा सरांनी माझा अभ्यास कसा काय चाललाय म्हणून मला विचारले. माझ्या आईने जेंव्हा त्यांना सांगितले कि, ह्याची सध्या इंजीनीयरिंग ची परीक्षा चालू आहे पण हा तुम्हाला इथे येउन भेटायला उतावळा झाला होता म्हणून आजच आलो ,तेव्हा सर मला म्हणाले "अरे बोनी इतक्या लांब यायची गरज नव्हती रे. मी ठीक आहे रे बाळ .तु काळजी करू नकोस".
सर अंथरुणावर झोपूनच आमच्याशी बोलत होते तरी पण मला त्यांच्या पाया पडावेसे वाटले. मी जरा खाली वाकलो आणि सरांना म्हणालो "सर पाया पडतो" आणि हाथ पुढे करून त्यांच्या पायाला स्पर्श करून परत तोच हाथ माझ्या छातीला लाविला . सर आशीर्वादार्थ हाथ उचलून बोलले " अरे राहूदे राहूदे ….देव तुला सुखी ठेवो "
…. सरांची हीच आयुष्यभर पुरणाऱ्या आशीर्वादाची शिदोरी उराशी बाळगून आता जीवनाचा प्रवास खंबीरपणे करावयाचा आहे …

Thursday, May 8, 2014

पहाटेचे स्वप्न :


पहाटेचे स्वप्न :


बाळ अरे बाळ कधी रे येत आहेस भेटायला ? 



बरेच दिवस झाले की रे भेटून. 

संसाराच्या धावपळीत बुडून गेलास की रे पार.

चल परत एकदा भेटूया.

उघड्या आकाशाखाली,चांदण्या रात्री मनमुराद गप्पा मारुया. 

खूप खूप बोलावयाचे आहे. 

तू येशील,खात्री आहेच मला !!!! 

गूरु रतनगड प्रेमाने साद घालतायेत. 

सकाळची स्वप्ने खरी ठरतात अस म्हणतात …